Danni Barry’s cooking is a thrill. Her dishes mainline tension, and release, and the finesse of her food means every meal in Eipic is a high-wire act. She brings a microscopic attention to detail to dishes such as duck yolk with broad beans, lettuce, puffed grains and and Belfast chorizo, or asparagus in filo with a bacon cream, and the result is truly original cooking: no other Irish chef is creating food quite like this. Every element of every dish receives equal indulgence, so what will have you purring with delight is likely to be modest kohlrabi, or a simple linseed cracker with fresh cheese, or brown seed bread with Abernethy butter. Michael Deane himself, liberated from the kitchen, has become a relaxed and humorous host, and Eipic is, in every way, epic.
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