There’s craft in Phil Yeung’s Craft. The chef works hard at his dishes – pickling walnuts for Young Buck arancini; making a Kelly-green avocado pureé with crab toasts; braising oxtail to pair with superb fresh pasta. Every dish on Mr Yeung’s menu is thought-through, and craftily harmonised, from the brown bread and butter, to the delicious carrots with Velvet Cloud yogurt and ras el hanout, from the grilled salad with john dory and baby squid, to the pea shoots served with arancini. Craft shows craft, for sure, and offers a vivid snapshot of modern Irish cooking, but above all works because this is food with character. Excellent service gets the job done in a busy, tight-spaced room, and Craft is a happening Dublin dining room, and a brilliant destination in Harold’s Cross.
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