Tom Burgess's farmhouse cheese is closest to a territorial cheddar cheese in style, yet also has some elements of a Comte-style to it, so it's a true sport of nature.
But what is undoubted is the clean alignment of flavours Mr Burgess brings forth, thanks to excellent cheesemaking using his own summer pasture, morning raw milk from happy cows. Coolattin offers sweet notes at the top, a touch of spice, a long, mellow aftertaste that shows the careful maturation of the cheese. Look for it in particular at Elizabeth Bradley's cheese stall at the Carlow Farmers' Market on Saturday morning. A beautiful, elemental farmhouse food.