Canteen Celbridge may be the most significant restaurant in Ireland. The clue to its importance lies in the name. Places like Celbridge don’t get top-flight restaurants, places where creative professionals cook beautiful food and serve it expertly in a gorgeous room. Yet Canteen Celbridge has thrived ever since James Sheridan and Soizic Humbert moved to Mr Sheridan’s homeplace, simply because the food and service you will enjoy here are so fine, and the dishes are so well-judged: a little note of sorrel with charred and grilled salmon; the crisp skin on the duck confit; a sweet shellfish bisque with hake; crisp pear with salt-baked Jerusalem artichoke; a lovely soft chocolate dessert with hazelnuts. The cooking is complex but very approachable and, just as importantly, very affordable. Canteen Celbridge is the star of commuter land.
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