The question everyone asks about Waterford’s Bodega! is this: does any other room enjoy the sort of wild energy that seems to be inscribed in the DNA of this restaurant?
The answer is: no. Bodega stands alone. It’s the restaurant equivalent of a cocktail: riotous, colourful, alluring, clamorous. It’s the room you want to be in, the action you want to be in on, the conversation you want to join. It’s a blast. The care and attention lavished on the food never falters, and whilst the menu reads like a modern litany – chicken wings; fish cakes; rack of lamb; steak frites; fish pie; vanilla panna cotta – what animates the cooking is some superb sourcing. The pork is from Crowe’s Farm; the beef and lamb from Joe Mallon; the chicken from Mary Walsh; the duck from Skeaghanore; the salmon from Flanagan’s. And, with such ace ingredients to work with, they don’t mess about with them, and the dishes have the energy and brightness of the room. Put this food in this room, and you have Bodega! The one and only.
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