Here is Monday’s menu from Assassination Custard, in full: nduja rolls with ricotta; fūl; cicoria, anchovy & lemon; kohlrabi tonnato; red endive, guanciale and ricotta salata; panelle; lamb heart and curry leaf yogurt.
So, where are we? Relae, Copenhagen? Aska, New York? Bar Tartine, San Francisco?
Nope. We are in Dublin, on Kevin Street, in a room with two tables, under a block of Corporation flats. We are in Assassination Custard, an unlikely name for an unlikely restaurant in an unlikely place.
We order everything, and everything is stunningly good, so good we can scarcely believe it. Ken Doherty and Gwen McGrath do the cooking, and they do it with integrity and expertise. Assassination Custard is so unlikely you couldn’t make it up, so we’re glad Mr Doherty and Ms McGrath had the nerve to make it up.
Photos 1 and 2, credit Bryan Meade
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