Wild Honey Inn
Aidan McGrath is a chatty bloke, but he’s also serious, and he hides that serious streak under a smiling, companionable demeanour. His serious side is reserved for his kitchen work, and, for the last nine years, since he and his wife, Kate, opened the Wild Honey Inn, that serious side has been producing some terrific cooking. He loves to work with ruddy cuts, like lamb neck fillet, or pork cheek, and he brings a lightness of touch that is revelatory – he seems to conduct his ingredients every bit as much as he cooks them, using pickles and vinegared, fermented flavours as counterpoint to the sweetness that dominates his cooking. It’s the perfect food for this modest bar and restaurant with rooms, a gastropub unlike any other in Ireland, and one of the stars of the west coast.
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